TucoB.P.J.M.R
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
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Apenas Estoy Aprendiendo Sobre Armas De Fuego Esta Chido El Documento Espero Pueda Aprender Mucho De Ustedes
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Conocer el estado de un revólver
- Autor Wyatt Earp
- Fecha de inicio
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- 21 May 2008
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Tnx
gracia spro el documento, aunke todavía no tengo arma ando en eso y precisamente decidiendome entre una escuadra y un revoilver y esto sin duda me ayuda a tomar mas cosas en cuenta...gracias..
gracia spro el documento, aunke todavía no tengo arma ando en eso y precisamente decidiendome entre una escuadra y un revoilver y esto sin duda me ayuda a tomar mas cosas en cuenta...gracias..
CARMAR
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Muy Buen Articulo Muchas Gracias... Pondremos En Practica .....
CHAC MOOL
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
fijate en el foro llamado DCAM Y SEDENA, ahi esta todo el tramite que tienes que realizar explicitamente explicado, desde las formas que debes llenar, a donde enviarlas, como moverte en el edo de mexico, registro de armas etc etc etc... o bien fijate en la seccion de avisos de ocacion de este foro... y si no tienes idea de los tramites, te recomiendo investigues a fondo en este foro, vale la pena estes bien enterado de los tramites, requisitos y leyes que regulabn la adquisicion de armas...
saludos...
saludos...
cal38s
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Amigos les dejo una pequeña guía para conocer el estado de un revólver.
Ví este artículo en un foro Chileno, cuyo creador es Nano,de Chile, sportjagd.cl,espero que les sirva.
Saludos.
GRACIAS POO ESA GUIA CARNAL
Y PUES PRIMERA VES QUE ENTRO AL FORO
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Saludos
Hola muchachos soy un nuevo miembro de este foro (ingrese hoy), soy amante de las armas de fuego me encantan todas ellas, (pero el factor economico) no permite el acceso a ellas, tengo un revolver taurus modelo 80 cal. .38 espl. funcionando perfectamente y me gustaria intercambiar fotos criterios e informacion para el buen uso del mismo (soy de guatemala)
Hola muchachos soy un nuevo miembro de este foro (ingrese hoy), soy amante de las armas de fuego me encantan todas ellas, (pero el factor economico) no permite el acceso a ellas, tengo un revolver taurus modelo 80 cal. .38 espl. funcionando perfectamente y me gustaria intercambiar fotos criterios e informacion para el buen uso del mismo (soy de guatemala)
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ah si olvide agradecerte por esa guia en mi primer dia creo que es un logro importante este documento hoy mismo checo mi cuete mano
CARMAR
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
bienvenido moises puedes abrir un post con las fotos de tu arma y tus opiniones seguro tendras muchos comentarios y aportaras cosas buenas a este magnifico lugar...
- Registrado
- 8 Jul 2008
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Gracias mano, me gustaria montar una foto de mi cuete pero soy nuevo en esto y no se como se hace quizas le atine en unos dias y entonces no?, eh logrado ver buenos comentarios y muy buenas experiencias de gente que sabe de armas en este foro me parece un foro interesantisimo y provechoso SALUDOS
alezarparrado
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Gracias mano, me gustaria montar una foto de mi cuete pero soy nuevo en esto y no se como se hace quizas le atine en unos dias y entonces no?, eh logrado ver buenos comentarios y muy buenas experiencias de gente que sabe de armas en este foro me parece un foro interesantisimo y provechoso SALUDOS
Bienvenido compañero Moises :cheers:
Si quieres abrir un post de discusion de tu arma tienes que ir a la seccion revolveres en armas cortas,ahi abres una nueva discusion haciendo click en la pestaña que dice "nuevo tema".
Escribes titulo y para subir las fotos arriba de donde escribes el texto hay una opcion que tiene el simbolo de un clip,la seleccionas y te sale la ventana para subir fotos ya sea de tu compu o de la red,un saludo.
frankkotiraddor
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Gracias mano, me gustaria montar una foto de mi cuete pero soy nuevo en esto y no se como se hace quizas le atine en unos dias y entonces no?, eh logrado ver buenos comentarios y muy buenas experiencias de gente que sabe de armas en este foro me parece un foro interesantisimo y provechoso SALUDOS
si quieres enviame la foto a mi correo y yo te la subo
archarms@hotmail.com
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
En Inglés el artículo de Nano
Y para completar, les dejo en ingles el artículo mucho más completo sin traducir, por si alguien quiere hacer la labor... lo pongo en partes..
Revolver Checkout: How To Tell If A Specimen Is Any Good, by Jim March
So you're buying a revolver. New, used, doesn't matter, you want a good one, right?
How do you check one over without firing it, right at the dealer's counter or gun show table?
This is how. All of this works with DA or SA wheelguns..."close the action" on most DAs means swing the cylinder in, on SA types, close the loading gate, on breakopens, close 'em. UNLOADED.
WARNING: most of these tests require violation of the "finger off trigger" rule. Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and making sure the gun is unloaded ahead of time, PERSONALLY, as you begin handling it.
Note: bring a small flashlight, something small and concentrated. A Photon or similar high-powered LED light is perfect. You also want feeler gauges if you're not used to eyeballing cylinder gaps; at a minimum, bring a .002", .004" and .006".
Note2: no dry firing is required or desired at any point. It just ticks off the gun's current owner.
Y para completar, les dejo en ingles el artículo mucho más completo sin traducir, por si alguien quiere hacer la labor... lo pongo en partes..
Revolver Checkout: How To Tell If A Specimen Is Any Good, by Jim March
So you're buying a revolver. New, used, doesn't matter, you want a good one, right?
How do you check one over without firing it, right at the dealer's counter or gun show table?
This is how. All of this works with DA or SA wheelguns..."close the action" on most DAs means swing the cylinder in, on SA types, close the loading gate, on breakopens, close 'em. UNLOADED.
WARNING: most of these tests require violation of the "finger off trigger" rule. Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and making sure the gun is unloaded ahead of time, PERSONALLY, as you begin handling it.
Note: bring a small flashlight, something small and concentrated. A Photon or similar high-powered LED light is perfect. You also want feeler gauges if you're not used to eyeballing cylinder gaps; at a minimum, bring a .002", .004" and .006".
Note2: no dry firing is required or desired at any point. It just ticks off the gun's current owner.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Juego en el Cilindro?
Cylinder play.
1) With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action.
2) Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down while keeping the trigger back - and KEEP holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in "full lockup" - keep it there for this and most other tests.)
3) With the trigger still back all the way, check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is particularly undesirable; a bit of side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should "want" to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a "welded to the frame" feeling.
Cylinder play.
1) With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action.
2) Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down while keeping the trigger back - and KEEP holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in "full lockup" - keep it there for this and most other tests.)
3) With the trigger still back all the way, check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is particularly undesirable; a bit of side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should "want" to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a "welded to the frame" feeling.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
abertura entre cilindro y cañon
Cylinder gap
4) Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you can get a credit card in there, that ain't good...velocity drops rapidly as the gap increases. Too tight isn't good either, because burnt powder crud will "fill the gap" and start making the cylinder spin funky. My personal .38snubbie is set at .002, usually considered the minimum...after about 40 shots at the range, I have to give the front of the cylinder a quick wipe so it spins free again. I consider that a reasonable tradeoff for the increased velocity because in a real fight, I ain't gonna crank 40 rounds out of a 5-shot snub .
If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source.
SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your stuff. It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued.
Cylinder gap
4) Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you can get a credit card in there, that ain't good...velocity drops rapidly as the gap increases. Too tight isn't good either, because burnt powder crud will "fill the gap" and start making the cylinder spin funky. My personal .38snubbie is set at .002, usually considered the minimum...after about 40 shots at the range, I have to give the front of the cylinder a quick wipe so it spins free again. I consider that a reasonable tradeoff for the increased velocity because in a real fight, I ain't gonna crank 40 rounds out of a 5-shot snub .
If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source.
SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your stuff. It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
para la alineacion entre el cañon y el cilindro, visto de frente
Por favor... que esté sin cartuchos...
Alignment of cylinder charge holes and barrel
5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the barrel . You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up.
You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some light in past where the rims would be.
Por favor... que esté sin cartuchos...
Alignment of cylinder charge holes and barrel
5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the barrel . You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up.
You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some light in past where the rims would be.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
desgaste en los alveolos o agujeros para cartuchos
Bore
(We're finally done with that "full lockup" stuff, so rest your trigger finger. )
6) Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the small flashlight to scope the bore out. This part's easy - you want to avoid pitting, worn-out rifling, bulges of any sort. You want more light on the subject than just what creeps in from the rear of the cylinder on the timing check.
You also want to check each cylinder bore, in this case with the light coming in from the FRONT of each hole, you looking in from the back where the primers would be. You're looking for wear at the "restrictions" at the front of each cylinder bore. That's the "forcing cone" area and it can wear rapidly with some Magnum loads.
Bore
(We're finally done with that "full lockup" stuff, so rest your trigger finger. )
6) Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the small flashlight to scope the bore out. This part's easy - you want to avoid pitting, worn-out rifling, bulges of any sort. You want more light on the subject than just what creeps in from the rear of the cylinder on the timing check.
You also want to check each cylinder bore, in this case with the light coming in from the FRONT of each hole, you looking in from the back where the primers would be. You're looking for wear at the "restrictions" at the front of each cylinder bore. That's the "forcing cone" area and it can wear rapidly with some Magnum loads.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Prueba de gatillo
Usando una pluma como aliviapercutor para no lastimarlo.
Trigger
7) To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of the hammer to "catch" it with the off hand, especially if it's a "firing pin on the hammer" type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's the best solution. Flat-faced hammers as found in transfer-bar guns (Ruger, etc) can be caught with the off-hand without too much pain .
SA triggers (or of course a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel "like a glass rod breaking". A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammerblock safety.
DA triggers are subjective. Some people like a dead-smooth feel from beginning of stroke to the end, with no "warning" that it's about to fire. Others (myself included) actually prefer a slight "hitch" right at the end, so we know when it's about to go. With that sort of trigger, you can actually "hold it" right at the "about to fire" point and do a short light stroke from there that rivals an SA shot for accuracy. Takes a lot of practice though. Either way, you don't want "grinding" through the length of the stroke, and the final stack-up at the end (if any) shouldn't be overly pronounced.
Usando una pluma como aliviapercutor para no lastimarlo.
Trigger
7) To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of the hammer to "catch" it with the off hand, especially if it's a "firing pin on the hammer" type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's the best solution. Flat-faced hammers as found in transfer-bar guns (Ruger, etc) can be caught with the off-hand without too much pain .
SA triggers (or of course a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel "like a glass rod breaking". A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammerblock safety.
DA triggers are subjective. Some people like a dead-smooth feel from beginning of stroke to the end, with no "warning" that it's about to fire. Others (myself included) actually prefer a slight "hitch" right at the end, so we know when it's about to go. With that sort of trigger, you can actually "hold it" right at the "about to fire" point and do a short light stroke from there that rivals an SA shot for accuracy. Takes a lot of practice though. Either way, you don't want "grinding" through the length of the stroke, and the final stack-up at the end (if any) shouldn't be overly pronounced.
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
PRoblemas con armeros
Detecting Bad Gunsmithing:
8) OK, so it's got a rock-solid cylinder, a .002" or .003" gap, and the trigger feels great. Odds are vastly in favor of it being tuned after leaving the factory.
So was the gunsmith any good?
First, cock it, then grab the hammer and "wiggle it around" a bit. Not too hard, don't bang on it, but give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and WATCH your muzzle direction.
You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. You REALLY don't want that . It can be fixed by installing factory parts but that'll take modest money (more for installation than hardware costs) and it'll be bigtime unsafe until you do.
The other thing that commonly goes wrong is somebody will trim the spring, especially coil springs. You can spot that if you pull the grip panels, see if the spring was trimmed with wire cutters. If they get too wild with it, you'll get ignition failures on harder primers. But the good news is, replacement factory or Wolf springs are cheap both to buy and have installed.
There's also the legal problems Massad Ayoob frequently describes regarding light triggers. If that's a concern, you can either swap back to stock springs, or since you bought it used there's no way to prove you knew it was modified at all
Detecting Bad Gunsmithing:
8) OK, so it's got a rock-solid cylinder, a .002" or .003" gap, and the trigger feels great. Odds are vastly in favor of it being tuned after leaving the factory.
So was the gunsmith any good?
First, cock it, then grab the hammer and "wiggle it around" a bit. Not too hard, don't bang on it, but give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and WATCH your muzzle direction.
You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. You REALLY don't want that . It can be fixed by installing factory parts but that'll take modest money (more for installation than hardware costs) and it'll be bigtime unsafe until you do.
The other thing that commonly goes wrong is somebody will trim the spring, especially coil springs. You can spot that if you pull the grip panels, see if the spring was trimmed with wire cutters. If they get too wild with it, you'll get ignition failures on harder primers. But the good news is, replacement factory or Wolf springs are cheap both to buy and have installed.
There's also the legal problems Massad Ayoob frequently describes regarding light triggers. If that's a concern, you can either swap back to stock springs, or since you bought it used there's no way to prove you knew it was modified at all
rogermr
Miembro de la Vieja Guardia
Un buen trabajo y
como identificar si necesitas o no ir.. a que lo alineen.
Espero esta serie les sirva, viene al final la referencia de donde lo tomé..
un saludo.
In perspective:
Timing (test #5) is very critical...if that's off, the gun may not even be safe to test-fire. And naturally, a crummy barrel means a relatively pricey fix.
Cylinder gap is particularly critical on short-barreled and/or marginal caliber guns. If you need every possible ounce of energy, a tight gap helps. Some factory gaps will run as high as .006"; Taurus considers .007" "still in spec." You'll be hard-pressed to find any new pieces under .004" - probably because the makers realize some people don't clean 'em often (or very well) and might complain about the cylinder binding up if they sell 'em at .002".
The guns in a dealer's "used pile" are often of unknown origin, from estate sales or whatever. Dealers don't have time to check every piece, and often don't know their history. These tests, especially cyliner gap and play, can spot a gun that's been sent off for professional tuning...like my snubbie, the best $180 I ever spent .
As long as the gun is otherwise sound (no cracks, etc) a gunsmith can fix any of this. So these tests can help you pick a particularly good new specimen, or find a good used gun, or help haggle the price
Jim March is a pro-gun, pro-freedom activist in California. He regularly posts on TheFiringLine.com and TheHighRoad.org. His article is reprinted here with his permission; reprinting or distribution of this article without Jim March's permission is expressly prohibited. Follow-up questions and answers to this article can be found here.
como identificar si necesitas o no ir.. a que lo alineen.
Espero esta serie les sirva, viene al final la referencia de donde lo tomé..
un saludo.
In perspective:
Timing (test #5) is very critical...if that's off, the gun may not even be safe to test-fire. And naturally, a crummy barrel means a relatively pricey fix.
Cylinder gap is particularly critical on short-barreled and/or marginal caliber guns. If you need every possible ounce of energy, a tight gap helps. Some factory gaps will run as high as .006"; Taurus considers .007" "still in spec." You'll be hard-pressed to find any new pieces under .004" - probably because the makers realize some people don't clean 'em often (or very well) and might complain about the cylinder binding up if they sell 'em at .002".
The guns in a dealer's "used pile" are often of unknown origin, from estate sales or whatever. Dealers don't have time to check every piece, and often don't know their history. These tests, especially cyliner gap and play, can spot a gun that's been sent off for professional tuning...like my snubbie, the best $180 I ever spent .
As long as the gun is otherwise sound (no cracks, etc) a gunsmith can fix any of this. So these tests can help you pick a particularly good new specimen, or find a good used gun, or help haggle the price
Jim March is a pro-gun, pro-freedom activist in California. He regularly posts on TheFiringLine.com and TheHighRoad.org. His article is reprinted here with his permission; reprinting or distribution of this article without Jim March's permission is expressly prohibited. Follow-up questions and answers to this article can be found here.